The Adventures of a Not-So-Great Climber

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March 13th, 2013 · Comments Off · All Posts, Update

‘Sup, my wonderful readers!!

Last month I was fortunate enough to compete in the ABS Divisional competition in Indianapolis, Indiana. My mom and brother came along for the (Long) ride. We drove up on Friday, and after several stops for food and other assorted goodies, we finally made it to Indianapolis. After we ate dinner we found the hotel and gym. Before I go any farther, let me tell you that Hoosier Heights is one of the coolest gyms I’ve ever seen (Their ISO is nicer than the main wall of most gyms). It has so many climbing surfaces and a giant foam pit that you can solo 30′-ish above. (Seen Below)

Hoosier Heights

Hoosier Heights

The morning of Qualifiers we ate breakfast and headed back over to the gym. After a few minutes of hanging out, I went into ISO. I was the last Male Junior to climb, so I was back there for a while. I hung out with some really cool, totally PSYCHED climbers and after warming up, it was my turn to climb.

The first problem was a pretty fun problem on a slightly overhung wall. It involved a few moderate pinches, but I managed to flash it.

The second Problem (And the hardest for me) was a european-style problem. It had a few really hard, static moves off of some pretty difficult volumes. Having never really climbed on volumes, I only made it about 1.5 moves into the whole problem and it really messed with my head.

The third problem, probably my favorite of the day, was a cool, really steep and dynamic problem. I made it a few moves, but I was still really preoccupied with my poor performance on the second problem, that I wasn’t able to fully focus on what I needed to do. If I’d been mentally fit, I most likely could’ve done this problem.

The fourth and final problem of the day was also extremely cool. It started with some pretty hard moves onto a bad sloper. After I figured out the beta for the first few moves, I was able to make it to the real crux. It involved a high reach around a bulge from a good stance in a corner to a dynamic throw to a good crimp. I made this move, but was unable to et my heel up to make the next move. I did, however, make it about as far as the top qualifiers of the day.

Once I was done climbing, I was not feeling great (Because I wan’t pleased with my performance), so we walked around and looked at the amazing facility.

Even though I didn’t qualify, I’m really excited at how well I did in my first season competing. Here are the links to LT11′s awesome recap videos of nationals:

Video from Youth Nationals

Adult Male

Adult Female

 

A few weeks later I rode with Ryan, Melise, and some AMAZING Nutella-muffin-crepe-things down to Brevard to help with an Evolv demo and Dyno Comp.

We helped to fore-run the dynos for that evening’s comp, and then we were able to hang out and climb with the people who were there to try out shoes. It as a super fun day, and I’m psyched for the next time I get to go and help.

(Chaz; Melise, who’s picture this is; Travis; Me; and Ryan)

 

Melise's Pic

The next weekend I competed in my gym’s spring Comp. Everybody was super relaxed, and had a great time. Jeremy (SUPER strong Boone climber) and I teamed up for the redpoint portion of the comp and had the same top 5 problems.

In finals I didn’t climb as well as I could have, but I’m super psyched to have placed 4th in Open at any competition.

SoCo Finals

This picture is of everybody who qualified for Finals. Right to left, Alex Brown, Matt Laundry, Me, and Jeremy Parnell. Because I had slightly less redpoint attempts earlier that day, I was in 3rd, but Jeremy and I switched places after finals.

 

On an other note, I have a few PSA’s for you guys:

Number One:

Please, please, please, go and vote for ThrifTee Gear in this contest. As of when I posted this, we’re in sixth place, but I know that with your help, we can get it done.
To vote, just click on THIS LINK  and scroll down to ThrifTee Gear and vote through either Facebook or Twitter. You can vote as many times as you want, so if everybody collaborates and gives a few minutes to the cause, we can do it.

 

Secondly, I have been contacted by a cool group of students from Bringham Young University who are making a moving about climbing. Here is a link to their Kickstarter Page: (It also has a cool video about what/how they’re making their film.) http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/willemk/without-a-rope-a-rock-climbing-narrative

 

Alright, that’s about it!

-Psychedbutbleeding

P.S. The other day I climbed a v8 and a 5.12+ in the same gym sesh.

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Update: Numero Uno de 2013 (Read all of it for some HUGE news)

January 10th, 2013 · Comments Off · All Posts, Update

Hey, Guys!

On December 8-9, I competed in the ABS Regional Championship. It was extremely fun, but very different from what I had anticipated.

pre iso with alex

(Hanging out with Alex before ISO)

It all started on Saturday, when we had to be at the gym in Lynchburg for check-in, rules, and isolation. Check-in went really smoothly, but it turned out that I had several hours before I needed to be in Isolation, so we went and got some tea, and hung out with some other climbing buddies for a while.

Once it was time, I went into ISO and began warming up. I had about an hour before I needed to be ready to climb, so I warmed up slowly, and talked with the other climbers and coaches. I was more nervous that I thought I would be, but once I was warm, and psyched, I went out and began the first circuit of problems.

For the qualification round, there were three problems, with four minutes of climbing, with four minutes of rest between.
The first problem was a pretty easy, but fun route. It consisted of some cool toe hook moves, and fun dynamic moves on good holds. I managed a flash of the problem, and had time to get a sip of water before the next problem.

The second problem was a couple short, easy moves, followed by a huge, dynamic cross to a deep 3.5 finger pocket. I believe it was on my first or second try that I was able to stick the cross and made it to the second crux, where I got my hands backwards, and came down.

The third and final problem of the day, and the hardest for me, was a sloper/pinch intensive problem that had a few moderate moves to a set of undercling moves on sloping pinches. I never made it through the bottom section, but the top section had a couple dynamic moves to slopers which looked really fun. I believe that I may have been able to get past the bottom section if I’d tried to undercling instead of staying low with heel hooks.

After the climbing was done, we went to dinner (A story for another day), but not before learning that I had qualified third to compete in finals the next morning.

Post climb reviev

After a delicious breakfast, we went to the gym, and hung out in ISO. Because of the scheduling, I had a few hours in ISO that morning, so I listened to music, and hung out for a while before I warmed up. Once warm, I went out and had my chance on the two final problems.

(Mandatory post climbing recap/beta-spew)

The first problem, my favorite of the whole day, was a fun slab with big slopers. I managed to get about three moves from the top, but wan’t able to finish it.

The last problem of the weekend was a super fun dynamic problem with good pinches and two-finger pockets that led into a slab with huge pinches and slopers. I managed to make it all the way through the bottom section several times, but I was never able to make the big move around the lip to some large pinches. However, because I made it that far, I placed third for the whole weekend(Only one hold behind 2nd place.), meaning I qualified 3rd to compete in Divisionals.

 

Top 3

(The top 3 qualifiers, from left to right: Myself (Carter) in 3rd, Michael in 2nd, and Tripp in 1st.)

Okay-time for the BIG news:

I am now officially a Grassroots Team member for Evolv!! I am so psyched to get to work with them, and I am sure we’re all in for a good time. I applied a while back, and not really expecting to get it, but after regionals and some outdoor climbing (Among other things) I realized that I had a chance. I am so glad to have applied, and I am so excited for the opportunity to represent their company.

evolv_logo

Don’t forget to“Like” me on Facebook and Follow me on twitter.

-Psychedbutbleeding

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I have some big news!

December 6th, 2012 · 3 Comments · All Posts, Update

Hey, Guys!

I just wanted to let you know that I have some pretty big news. I am now, officially, a SPONSORED climber!
I am extremely grateful for the support and encouragement from ThrifTee Gear, maker of reusable lunch bags from upcycled t-shirts.

 ThrifTee lung bags are essentially a food chalk-pot that gives you one place to store all your munch-ables. They’re super durable and are made from upcycled t-shirts. If you eat as much as I do, it’s always nice to have a bag of food to carry around while at the gym or boulderfield. You can even attach it to the outside of your crash-pad or backpack if you need more room. Please check out their awesome website at this link: http://thrifteegear.com/
(I am holding my tie-dye ThrifTee bag in the picture on the left.)
Thanks for reading!
Psychedbutbleeding

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No, you go first!

December 4th, 2012 · 4 Comments · All Posts, Update

Long time, no see!

I know that it’s been a while since I last wrote on here, but I have been up to my ears in school, climbing, and regular life; but all’s well, and I am extremely stoked. Over the past week or so, I sent my first three outdoor v7′s. (Doomed to Obscurity, Colt-45, and Pinchin’ the Loaf) All in relatively quick fashion.

The longest I spent on one was about 1.5-2 hours over several days. I am finally beginning to feel almost as solid on rock as I am on plastic. I believe that because I have done my three hardest problems so close together in time, that I can continue this momentum and send some more projects soon!

On November 10th, I competed in a competition in Brevard, NC. It was an extremely exciting and fun competition. I was really excited to get to climb at this gym with some really strong climbers. There was only one other Male Junior there, but I managed to place first in that category, and 3rd over all (After Ryan Scurfield and Travis Gray) This was one of the most fun competitions that I have attended.

The following weekend, November 17th, I went to my final local level ABS competition for the season*. It was at the Triangle Rock Club, in Morrisville, NC. Of all the gyms I have been to, this is my favourite. However, this was not my best competition. I was not in the game all the way mentally, but I still placed 2nd in Male Junior, and about 7th overall. The climbers at this event were all extremely talented and the overall atmosphere was positive and supportive.

This past Sunday, I went back to TRC for a 1-on-1 coaching session. This may have been the most I have learned about climbing in a single day. I have my list of things to work on before Regionals on Saturday and Sunday, I am going into this with the lofty expectation of coming out with a win.

Lastly, in case you haven’t heard, please Like me on Facebook or Follow me on Twitter.

Thanks for reading!
Psychedbutbleeding

*Link for a highlight video http://youtu.be/SZ1NKGuiTPo?hd=1

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Debriefing of the Awesomeness

October 30th, 2012 · 1 Comment · All Posts, Update

Hey, Guys!!

What’s up? Here’s what’s up: the ABS is pretty awesome, and I am training ridiculously hard.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Inner-Peaks Comp (Charlotte, NC):
This was my first real time competing in a competition. I’d done Hound Ears and a CCS, but I never really tried very hard to win. I didn’t really go for gold in this comp either, mostly ’cause I had/have a sprained ankle (More on that later). However, I was able to climb fairly well considering, and placed 4th in the Junior category, and 11th overall. I really had a blast at this comp and got super psyched on competing.
Here are links for a video and a photo-album in Facebook of the comp:
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10151205821399626&set=vb.148320544625&type=3&theater

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10151211362924626.474583.148320544625&type=3

 
Climbmax Comp (Asheville, NC):
This is the most fun I have ever really had in the gym. I climbed almost as well as I could have if I was 100%, flashing most of my hardest problems. (Flash up to moderate v6) I ended up doing well enough in the redpoint portion to compete in the on-sight finals round with the advanced adults. (I qualified in 2nd place in the overall men’s)
After a short break, we went into isolation and waited for our turn to go out and climb on the final problems in front of a pretty large crowd. I ended up coming in 1st of the climbers under 18 (Male or Female), 2nd out of all the male climbers, and 3rd out of all the climbers (Male or Female) that competed. For my 2nd place finish overall, I was given a Mountain Hardwear backpack (Review of that coming soon)
I was very fortunate to be able to climb with some really awesome people at the past two competitions. Melise, Travis, Alex (Brown and Moss) and Leanna all helped me to do much better than I would have done otherwise. In fact at finals, Melise, Travis, and myself all climbed at the same time and placed top three overall.

Update:
I am competing in 2 more local comps (November 10 and 17), Regionals (Lynchburg, VA), hopefully Divisionals (Indianapolis), and possibly Nationals (Colorado).
Also, there was a comp at my home gym on Sunday, but I didn’t compete. I did, however, go today and have a ‘mock comp’ against myself. I didn’t climb great (It’s not like I climbed hard all weekend, HA!) But, I did manage a flash of a moderate v7, among other things.
My ankle is feeling much better since I sprained it right before the Inner-Peaks comp. I was climbing all day and busted it in the shower. It hasn’t hurt in several days – even with the comp in Asheville. In only feels weak now when I put stress on it at weird angles and with weird twists. I think it will be close to 100% by my next competition.

 

 

 

 

-Psychedbutbleeding

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Update!!

October 18th, 2012 · Comments Off · All Posts, Update

Hey, GUYS!!!

Since my last update alot had happened. I have trained, climbed, and more.

To start off, I competed in the first leg of the Triple Crown Bouldering Series. These competitions are on real rock, and are based on your top ten boulder problems. I competed in the Intermediate Men’s category, problems ranging from v3-v5. I had 8 v4′s, a v5, and a v6 (I flashed the 6, and pretty much did everything else in 3 or less tries.) My final score was 3,996. I came in 4th place!! I am so stoked. I think it’s a sign that my training is paying off.

Secondly, I have registered for my first ABS comp. It’s this weekend, I am so stoked.

I have also been climbing outside a lot lately. I went to Grandmother boulders last week and sent Ophidiaphobic (v6) on my 2nd try! It’s a super classic climb with a cool problem in the beginning followed by a really fun and committing slab. The guy who put it up was actually there to spoon-feed me beta, which was really cool.

At Blowing Rock boulders, I sent Right Maddux (v5) 2nd try, Deforestation (v5-ish), and a few other really fun climbs. I am also getting really close on Bitch (v6), Desperate Bitch (v8), Colt 45 (v7), Classic Arete-sit (v6), Left 45 (v5), and Left-into-45 (v7-8). I am so psyched.

Also, I have been using my ClimbOn! Like crazy!! As it turns out, it’s really good for split-tips, an affliction I don’t usually get for long anymore thanks to skincare products like ClimbOn!

See you on the rocks,

Psychedbutbleeding

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ClimbOn!

September 20th, 2012 · Comments Off · All Posts, Update

I would like to start this post off by thanking the team at ClimbOn! Products for the  privilege of previewing the new ClimbOn! Man-Bar; and, needless to say, it is awesome.

 

 

 

 

For those of you who don’t know, ClimbOn! makes this special “super-thick, awesomely quick-healing”  lotion. It is basically everything you need for your skin to heal from blisters/flappers all held together by wax; and, it can also be used as lip-balm.

 

 

 

 

I have been using the regular ClimbOn Mini-Bar (Pictured above, with the orange label) for a while, I actually got it before I was really a climber (I think in 2008), and have been very satisfied with it. I did notice a few changes between the regular Bar and the Man-Bar (Top Picture, with red label), though.

The first is the smell. While I do enjoy the citrus-esque bouquet of the regular Bar, sometimes you need a less prominent smell. The new bar delivers more faint smell, almost smelling like Fall weather, if that makes any sense…

The second is the container. My old ‘Can O’ ClimbOn!’ was kinda’ hard to open. (Especially after a bad flapper) but, the new container is much easier to open. I am not sure if there was even a change made to the container, but the new one opens with much less effort.

All in all, I am very pleased with my new Man-Bar, and will definitely buy another one once I use it all up.

-Psychedbutbleeding

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Briefing on All Mah’ Junk

September 7th, 2012 · 5 Comments · All Posts, Update

Hey, Guys!

I have a few announcements:

  1. I recently received a sample of the new “Man-Bar” from ClimbOn! Needless to say, I am so stoked to get to try it, so I plan to write long review about it once I get a chance to really use it
  2. I have a Facebook page: http://www.facebook.com/ClimberCarter Please let me know if there is anything I need to change about it. I could use the editing.
  3. I finally got around to getting Lead-Certified at the gym. Fun stuff.
  4. And, last but not least, I am planning to make a short film about climbing with my little brother over the next few weeks. So, be sure to tune back in to see the awesomeness.

Stay safe and have fun!

-Psychedbutbleeding

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Update!!!!

August 10th, 2012 · Comments Off · All Posts, Update

Hey, Guys! Guess what? I’m hoooome!

I have been away for 9 weeks. I have only climbed about 10 times this entire summer. Needless to say, I am STOKED to be home. I am fortunate to have been paid for working at a summer-camp. So, a little bit of my income has gone towards some climbing gear.

I bought a Sterling Evolution-Kosmos 10.2mm rope today, along with a Metolius Ropemmaster bag. I had saved  enough gift cards to pay for almost all of the rope.
I made a deal with my parents that if I was going to buy a rope for sport climbing, they would buy me a helemt. I just have to wear it.

On an other note, part of my training to get back ing shape, from being gone/eating camp food for over 2 months, is that I am going to a “Fitness Bootcamp.” It is extremely fun, and I can tell that it is working. I was still in pretty good shape when I got home, but after only one week, I can already feel much fitter.

I am trying to get my finger strength back, both by working the forearms, using a hangboard, and (Hopefully) climbing alot.

My parents have started getting EXTREMELY supportive of the idea that I compete in the ABS this fall. Needless to say, I am sofreakingexcited at the aspect of getting to compete and, maybe, getting to compete with some of the best climbers in the country…

 

I hope to see you on the rocks!

-Psychedbutbleeding

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Atrophy

July 7th, 2012 · Comments Off · Update

Hey, Guys!

I have some good and some bad news.

Bad #1: My camera was jacked on Wednesday from a ‘locked’ room, so I am now camera-less and super pissed. (Not to mention it wasn’t a cheap camera. Canon Reble T1i, kit lens, charger, tripod mount, and UV filter)

Bad #2/good: I got to go to the climbing gym today during my 20-ish hours off from camp/work. So, that was pretty awesome. I climbed pretty poorly, and I could feel how weak I’ve gotten. Even though I have been doing a lot of pushups and pull-ups, and my overall strength is higher, my finger strength was so low that I couldn’t hold on very well. This means that I need to use my new hangboard more, as well as utilizing my key to the ‘bouldering’ wall.

Anyway, camp is still worth it (for now) and I think that I can start to gain back what I lost so I can be successful this Fall in the ABS. I am superfreakingexcited about competing, and I plan to kick some ass.

-Psychedbutbleeding

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