‘Sup, my wonderful readers!!
Last month I was fortunate enough to compete in the ABS Divisional competition in Indianapolis, Indiana. My mom and brother came along for the (Long) ride. We drove up on Friday, and after several stops for food and other assorted goodies, we finally made it to Indianapolis. After we ate dinner we found the hotel and gym. Before I go any farther, let me tell you that Hoosier Heights is one of the coolest gyms I’ve ever seen (Their ISO is nicer than the main wall of most gyms). It has so many climbing surfaces and a giant foam pit that you can solo 30′-ish above. (Seen Below)
The morning of Qualifiers we ate breakfast and headed back over to the gym. After a few minutes of hanging out, I went into ISO. I was the last Male Junior to climb, so I was back there for a while. I hung out with some really cool, totally PSYCHED climbers and after warming up, it was my turn to climb.
The first problem was a pretty fun problem on a slightly overhung wall. It involved a few moderate pinches, but I managed to flash it.
The second Problem (And the hardest for me) was a european-style problem. It had a few really hard, static moves off of some pretty difficult volumes. Having never really climbed on volumes, I only made it about 1.5 moves into the whole problem and it really messed with my head.
The third problem, probably my favorite of the day, was a cool, really steep and dynamic problem. I made it a few moves, but I was still really preoccupied with my poor performance on the second problem, that I wasn’t able to fully focus on what I needed to do. If I’d been mentally fit, I most likely could’ve done this problem.
The fourth and final problem of the day was also extremely cool. It started with some pretty hard moves onto a bad sloper. After I figured out the beta for the first few moves, I was able to make it to the real crux. It involved a high reach around a bulge from a good stance in a corner to a dynamic throw to a good crimp. I made this move, but was unable to et my heel up to make the next move. I did, however, make it about as far as the top qualifiers of the day.
Once I was done climbing, I was not feeling great (Because I wan’t pleased with my performance), so we walked around and looked at the amazing facility.
Even though I didn’t qualify, I’m really excited at how well I did in my first season competing. Here are the links to LT11′s awesome recap videos of nationals:
A few weeks later I rode with Ryan, Melise, and some AMAZING Nutella-muffin-crepe-things down to Brevard to help with an Evolv demo and Dyno Comp.
We helped to fore-run the dynos for that evening’s comp, and then we were able to hang out and climb with the people who were there to try out shoes. It as a super fun day, and I’m psyched for the next time I get to go and help.
(Chaz; Melise, who’s picture this is; Travis; Me; and Ryan)
The next weekend I competed in my gym’s spring Comp. Everybody was super relaxed, and had a great time. Jeremy (SUPER strong Boone climber) and I teamed up for the redpoint portion of the comp and had the same top 5 problems.
In finals I didn’t climb as well as I could have, but I’m super psyched to have placed 4th in Open at any competition.
This picture is of everybody who qualified for Finals. Right to left, Alex Brown, Matt Laundry, Me, and Jeremy Parnell. Because I had slightly less redpoint attempts earlier that day, I was in 3rd, but Jeremy and I switched places after finals.
On an other note, I have a few PSA’s for you guys:
Please, please, please, go and vote for ThrifTee Gear in this contest. As of when I posted this, we’re in sixth place, but I know that with your help, we can get it done.
To vote, just click on THIS LINK and scroll down to ThrifTee Gear and vote through either Facebook or Twitter. You can vote as many times as you want, so if everybody collaborates and gives a few minutes to the cause, we can do it.
Secondly, I have been contacted by a cool group of students from Bringham Young University who are making a moving about climbing. Here is a link to their Kickstarter Page: (It also has a cool video about what/how they’re making their film.) http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/willemk/without-a-rope-a-rock-climbing-narrative
Alright, that’s about it!
P.S. The other day I climbed a v8 and a 5.12+ in the same gym sesh.